Romantic Tour of India

There are many places in India perfect for honeymooners and romantic travelers. Read more to find out the hidden places of India.

Khajuraho, India (prHWY.com) January 20, 2011 - Little did I know what I was getting into when old friend (GS) Chani, award-winning theater artiste and tele-film maker, invited me to research, script and anchor a television show called Forts of India. It turned out to be an exhilarating journey in time and space that covered 26 forts in 9 states taking about three years in 'real time'. We travelled thousands of kilometers and spanned centuries documenting these citadels that have been realms of romance and repositories of culture.

Some of these forts are famous picture-postcard images synonymous with India while others remain unknown even to fellow Indians residing almost next door. It's these comparatively unknown forts that propel one on an inward journey, making it impossible to avoid questions about the relationship the past has with the present. These are places unburdened by tourist traffic, eager guides, pushy souvenir sellers, and intrusive shutterbugs. The ruins seem to merge - willfully fading away - into the surrounding foliage. However, once encountered they are impossible to forget.

ROCKING CITADEL

The Gingee fort in Tamil Nadu stands in solitary splendour on a sheer rock jutting out about 300 metres skyward from sprawling paddy fields. This is actually a complex of three citadels that fortified the city. At different times it was held by the Nayakars, Nabob of Arcot on behalf of the Mughals, the Marathas, French and the British. The buildings naturally reflect a curious amalgam of architectural styles ranging from Vijayanagar to 18th-century European. There is a multi-tiered kalyanamandapam that seems to be inspired-saracenic while the Padmanabha temple displays the classic features of Hindu temples in South India with ornate gates and decorated pillars. The road climbing the steep hill appears deceptively gentle. In fact, it has enough twists and turns to deter any aggressor. The path winds through thorny bushes strewn with rocks and includes a steep flight of steps leading up to a deep moat that has a very narrow drawbridge. The approach was commanded by cannons mounted on the ramparts that seem to grow out of the rock. Other buildings of interest are a gymnasium, an armoury, tanks to store water, grains and ghee and dungeons built in a deep, dark well. The flagstaff marks the highest point on the hill.

Folk songs and legends keep alive the memories of Desing Raja and his boyhood friend, a Muslim noble, who laid down their lives defending the fort. It is difficult to imagine that this was once a flourishing entrepot and seat of culture coveted by powerful sovereigns like Emperor Aurangzeb. Layers of ramparts girdle the entire city and Annamalai, the sacred hill where Sage Ramana once dwelt, shimmers on the distant horizon.
The sleepy township remains, by and large, indifferent to the handful of guided tourists who descend on it for a day-long excursion. Most hotels serve only a tiffin and full meals are hard to come by.

GETTING THERE:

Gingee is 150 km from Chennai and 65 km from Puducherry (Pondicherry). The nearest airport is Chennai

RUINS BY THE SEA

Janzira Murud is a jaladurga, with the Arabian Sea serving as its natural moat. The sea surrounds the small island and cannons on the high ramparts could keep away any invader. According to legend, this was originally a small fishing village fortified by the Kolis to keep at bay predatory pirates. The daring Sidis wrested control of the site by deceit and erected an impregnable fort that once housed a small city comprising a population of thousands.

The Sidis were soldiers of fortune and born sailors who had migrated to India from Abyssinia in the 14th century. Malik Ambar belonged to this tribe and he carved out a niche for himself in the annals of Deccan history. Emperor Jehangir was frustrated in his repeated attempts to subdue him and had to finally satisfy himself by shooting arrows at Ambar's effigy!

Janzira remained unconquered with its rulers challenging the might of powerful adversaries like the Mughals, Portuguese, French, Marathas and the British. Their sway extended across the Western seaboard - controlling to a large extent international trade and imposing taxes on traders headed for ports in this region - till India attained Independence. Even Shivaji, who had the redoubtable naval commander Kanhoji Angre at his side, couldn't oust the Sidis from their stronghold. The Marathas later built Padmadurga - a sea fort of their own - to secure their possessions on land from these marauders.

It is a pity that the fort today is almost totally in ruins. It can only be reached by dhow-like sailboats or motorised vessels. The breeze on the beach is bracing and at sunset it's impossible not to be mesmerised by the silhouette.

GETTING THERE:

Mumbai is 165 km away (via Revdanda). The drive takes around 4 to 5 hours

PURANAS TO PRESENT

Kalinjar, according to local folklore, is the oldest fort in India and the site is referred to in the epics and puranas. It is believed to be an ancient place of pilgrimage favoured by ascetics for practising austerities and penance.

Once considered a sensitive, strategic outpost in the heart of India, it has today receded into the 'backwaters' - the dacoit-infested badlands of Uttar Pradesh. It is a pity that poor connectivity and an unenviable reputation keep visitors away from this beautiful, sprawling fort - a blend of giri (hill) and vanadurga (forest fort). The site is also quite close to the exquisitely carved temple complex at Khajuraho and could easily be listed on tourist itineraries.

The Chandelas who built the temples at Romantic Khajuraho held Kalinjar for centuries till they were challenged by the Delhi sultans. Qutubuddin Aibaq, founder of the slave dynasty, was the first to capture and plunder Kalinjar and this is where Sher Shah Suri, arguably one of India's greatest rulers, lost his life after suffering burns during a siege when a rocket rebounding from the ramparts landed on a heap of explosives. The Afghans captured the fort but lost the Indian Empire. The Bundela chieftains who marauded all and sundry passing through forest tract controlled by them held Kalinjar till the British bought them off.

The Nilkantheshwar temple at the base of the hill presents a stunning sight with statues strewn all over the courtyard. The gateway to the sanctum within a rock-cut cave is 'framed' by a roofless, pillared portico that dates back to the Gupta period. It is flanked by a huge Shiva idol carved on the rock-face depicting Shiva in a fierce form.

GETTING THERE:

The nearest airport is Khajuraho, 105 km away

BIDRI AND BAIGAN MASALA

Till I saw the Bidar ka Qila, Bidar for me - like I am sure for most others - was a place where exquisitely crafted inlay metalware is produced. Even if the glistening black-and-silver surahis and hookahs remain out of reach, one can pick up smaller, less-expensive trinkets like sherwani buttons here.

But there's more to Bidar than souvenirs. The beautiful fort is a well-kept secret with a sprawling compound and myriad wonders. Perched atop a high plateau it overlooks the flat land surrounding it for miles. The main citadel is protected by double ramparts and gates crested with imposing domes.

Within the fort is a magnificent mosque and palaces adorned with Chinese tiles, mother-of-pearl work, stunning calligraphy, paintings and delicate woodwork. The outer rampart protecting the fortified city encloses the imposing ruins of Maimed Gawan's madrassa. Mahmud was, like the much better known Sir Walter Raleigh, 'a man for all seasons'. He won their confidence and played a significant role in introducing land reform, eliminating corruption and expanding the frontiers of the kingdom.

GETTING THERE:

Nearest airport is Hyderabad, 136 km away honeymoon vacation packages

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Tag Words: gi, puducherry, romantic travelers, romantic khajuraho, hyderabad, mumbai, romantic tour in india, romantic, romance, love, honeymoon india, romantic india, india

Categories: Travel

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